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Hello – and inevitable questions…..
- This topic has 17 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 4 months ago by
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I have a rather ratty 1965 Moulton which has been steadily cannibalised over the years to keep my ‘for best’ Deluxe running. I would now like to build it back up into a machine for getting fit again but have some questions….
What exactly precipitates failure of the series 1 rear fork? I am concerned for two reasons – I am thinking of fitting a Sturmey S3X 3 speed fixed hub; I am presently rotund. The fixed gear is just because I like it (I don’t engage in skid stops and other shenanigans like that) and because I have horrific memories of ineffectual rear braking from the last hill on a London to Brighton some years ago.
How might I straighten a rear beam which was pushed slightly sideways behind the stays in a tumble? Can I do it without endangering the rest of the frame or should I consider cutting it off altogether?
Lastly, would I be right in thinking that switching to 369 rims would give me a better choice of decent front brake calipers? I imagine that this would mean I don’t need ‘ultra deep drop’?
Sorry for the rather needy first post. I look forward to joining in some North West club rides in the near future.
349 rims are same size as bromptons so I would expect some choices although the front wheel hub is different so buying the rims and having the wheels built up to fit is basically what I am going to do on my 65 moulton speed build, looking into brakes etc further down the line as I would like to lighten and modernise while still keeping the parts new but looking retro as much as possible, as for the rear forks, post up some pics on here or the facebook page to get a more thorough assessment but there are plenty material in the archives and other internet sites regarding the mk1 rear fork issues.
Are you experienced in riding fixed gear machines? You must take precautions such as no loose trousers or shoe laces, if any clothing gets caught in the chainwheel you are in trouble!
The bottom bracket height needs to be considered, due to the risk of grounding a pedal while cornering.
Hi with regards to front hub. I use a brompton one just with extra spacers to take up the slack so as not to stress the fork blades laterally too much.
On the brake/rim question, I wouldn’t say there is enough between the two rim sizes to matter. I have recently done up two F Frames, one a Deluxe with 349mm rims and a MK3 with 369s. I used Tektro long reach calipers on both. I’m very happy with them, they work well, fit great and the price is very reasonable. If you are using mudguards you will need calipers to fit around them and the Tektro brakes do that very well. The model you will want is a R539. You can see the brakes on the bikes here: http://tinyurl.com/n5ppdjc and here:http://tinyurl.com/opver2f
I have been looking at tektros and wondered what size to get, thanks for the heads up as I still want something shiny and retro but with modern stopping power, I shall hunt these out on ebay!
P.S. Can I ask what clips your using on the frame for the cables and where can I source them? any more tips are welcome, i.e what cranks, handlebars, levers etc and where there from as I am sourcing parts but would rather know someone who has done the hard work regarding sourcing parts and done the measurements needed as this is my first build!
I assume this question is for me? On the blue Deluxe, I welded up the holes for the plastic cable guides and brazed on cable guides. I got them from Nova Cycles Supply http://tinyurl.com/25ubspl If you have broken plastic cable guides you can get replacements from Moulton Preservation.
On the rest of the components, that would more depend on your personal preference. I had some Campagnolo cranks laying around (plus I like Campy) so that is what I used, but really any square taper crank would be fine if you are not reusing the original parts. I used a cartridge bottom bracket, the Deluxe needed spacers on one side due to the offset BB shell. The MK3 has Raleigh threads, so I use a Phil Wood BB because they sell the correct thread cups, but a MK1 or 2 just needs standard British threads. Of course the BB will have to match the crank tapers and the spacing will be dependent on the crank as well. You can usually pick up like new Campy Mirage or Veloce cranks fairly cheaply, I used a Campy 115 BB. I would stay away from the newer outer bearing cranks, I don’t know how well they would work on an F Frame. If you go with Campy cranks and want a chainguard, the only place I have found one is here: http://www.bbgbashguard.com/ I guess I should mention they are double cranks, I used the inner mount for the chainring and the outer for the chainguard.
Handlebars, again more personal preference. The Deluxe was for my daughter, she does shall we say more sedate cycling, so upright bars were my choice. I really like the Mustache bars, they give you multiple hand positions, I think they are a good compromise between drop bars and flat bars. Regardless of what bars you use, you will need a 1” quill stem. The clamp size and rise will be dependent on the bars. I like Nitto, they are a little pricey but very nice quality and I think has a nice look to it. The stems on both of those bikes are Nitto MT-10, which gets the bars up high enough. Brake levers, again dependent on bar selection, the Tektro calipers are made for road levers, you do not need long pull levers. Nitto mustache bars use drop bar brake levers.
I hope this helps, really your component selection is more dependent on the intended usage than anything else. Just to give you another perspective, here is one more link to another MK3 I have, it is a bit different spec to the others: http://tinyurl.com/mykod55
Des, with regards to sourcing parts contact Moulton Preservation. The contact route is snail mail but Michael has always come through for me. The cable guides are either clip in plastic ones, if the frame holes are 5mm, or pop rivet type if the holes are smaller. Both types available from Moulton Preservation.
I have gone the Dual pivot brake route after having a moment following Ian in April.
I have substantially modified my 66 Standard so please feel free to contact me direct if my feeble knowledge can help.
Many thanks for all the replies so far, very helpful. I think I might ask Moulton Preservation if they would do a complete suspension rebuild and advise me about strengthening the rear fork. Are there any thoughts on straightening / shortening the rear beam?
Regarding handlebars and stems I can only second the recommendation for Nitto – I have a a Technomic deluxe (70mm reach) stem and ‘Noodle’ bars on my other Deluxe which are both functional and real things of beauty. I get mine from an online shop called ‘Hubjub’ who have given me excellent service over the years.
I am also very particular about brakes after a heart in mouth ‘moment’ – I have the very deep drop Alhonga dual pivot on the front and a Sturmey S3C three-speed with back-pedal brake at the rear. It seems that the Alhonga is hard to find these days so the Tektro recommendation is very welcome. It is probably worth noting that I couldn’t get the rear Alhonga caliper to fit without fouling or resorting to what looked like an unhealthy amount of spacers – hence the hub brake. I had hoped that going for a 369 rim might open up more front caliper options but appreciate that it is quite a small difference.
Regarding fixed wheel, yes, I have ridden fixed before (in fact I rode very little else for about 12 years) but the warning about loose clothing, shoelaces etc. is valid and welcome. The 369 rims should raise the bottom bracket a litle and I will probably dig out a set of short cranks if I can find them to help avoid pedal strike in corners. I don’t intend to ride this new build aggressively though – it is more about trying to combine the ‘magic carpet’ feel of an F frame with the ‘pleasantly rolling along’ sensation of fixed wheel. The three speed is so I can twiddle up hills rather than mash a big gear out of the saddle.
Once again, thanks for all the help.
Yup thanks for the help lads also, I was going to get the clips from the preservation society but like you say its snail mail and I am not the most patient person in the world but I would rather have the originals unless I could find them in black as I would like to swap the white cables for black. As for bars I am looking for similar bars as the originals in alloy although nitto etc are tempting me, I have been looking at a company from the states making some fab retro vintage parts for good prices called velo orange, they have an ebay site also there is velo heaven, practical cycles, veloduecycles, some lovely parts updated daily, velo orange also have some nice bars!
p.s I bought the 80mm polished stem from here the other day, decent for the price and fits fine! – http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380282472345?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=650013675844&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The Red Mk 3 here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7355589@N02/sets/72157600010412913/
I know of barn and shed finds, but to restore a bike which has been consumed in a fire, that is truly a labour of love.
How did you treat the rust?
A warning for others, machinery subject to fire can be contaminated by chemicals, such as acids, which have broken down in the heat and arepotentially very injurous, they should be handled with care, if those chemicals enter the skin such as by a wound they can have serious consequences, such as wounds which do not healDes I have a brown Velo Orange saddle going buck shee if you could benefit. I have tried and failed to get used to it but my soft behind craves a Brooks. Contact if you wish.
Les
Cheers for the offer fella but I am going to stick a new black brooks on mine, I have one on my cruiser and I love it although its a B173 sprung model I have no doubt a standard one will almost be as nice once worn in to the shape of my bum!
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