[Mark]

All

New to the club – hello all.

I have a DP in the US where I spend part of my year. I’m in the UK frequently but not usually for more than a week or two at a time, so haven’t really cycled here for many years. I decided to sit out the pandemic in the UK and retrieved my 1985 AM7 out of storage after 30 years. A few weeks in and I bought a TSR9 for tow paths/off-road cycling, and sent the AM7 to be stripped down, cleaned, and rebuilt (the mechanic had great fun extracting the front spring).

As is the way, I have been sliding down the slippery slope of upgrading parts on the TSR. With joining the club, and much reading on matters Moulton, I am wondering if I need an F-frame in the stable.

I’d be interested in the forum’s view on what a space-framer might like in an F-frame, and which model might be best.

Regards

[Alexander Johnston]

Mark, the F frame is a heavier bike and of course is about 50 years old. They have quite heavy components. Some owners upgrade them and some keep them original. Nevertheless they are nice to ride, unusual and IMO attractive. If you join the Moulton Bicycle Facebook Facebook Forum who will see many photographs of different F frame Models and each has their adherents. I use mine for short utility journeys.

[Keith Hales]

I have a DP here in the UK, as well as an ATB with a tandem and e-assist conversion.

I also have a Bridgestone Moulton, and find it almost as good as the DP in terms of ride and handling at a fraction of the cost! I like it because it’s an update of the original F-frame design. The only caveat is that it was designed for the Japanese market and as such doesn’t suit taller people, say over about 5′ 10″.

Keith Hales

[Roger Cantwell]

I know this is an ancient thread but, comparing the TSR to an F-frame:

The F-frame is much heavier but can be made into a reasonably light bike with alloy components.

The F-frame suspension is very soft as stock. You can stiffen the front up (add preload) with a simple modification.

The F-frame fork has little “stiction” and works better over small road irregularities.

F-frame gearing is a challenge due to the narrow rear spacing of about 114mm. It was designed as a 3- or 4-speed only. The front fork spacing is a bit under the usual 100mm, too.

F-frames are a bit more challenging to work on than a TSR. The front and rear suspension are more time-consuming to rebuild.

Some unique F-frame parts are unobtanium.

The F-frame rack is huge and, unless “plug-in”, should not be detached. The struts perform a structural function. It looks less gawky with any kind of bag on the back.

Generally, the F-frame suspension is better protected from the elements and an F-frame will survive better if thrashed and neglected.

The F-frame has a VERY HIGH bottom bracket. Unlesz you are an absolute beanpole, you will not be able to get a toe down at traffic lights.

[NeillSlater]

if you have a DP you have experienced the very highest end of Cycling attainable.you have been to Cyclings equivalent of Nirvana and livd to tell the tale.
The F-Frame is a delightful bike.A joy to ride.it was the starting point for the DP and the spaceframes.
after enjoying a DP you may struggle to appreciate anything else as the DP is in a different galaxy when compared to other Bicycles..but for getting about from a to b in comfort and speed an F-Frame cannot be beaten.also if you lock it somewhere its likely to still be there when you get back..but coming from a DP you should strip an F-Frame and fit only the most discerning light alloy components to lighten it down as much as possible.the problem is the F-Frame is made from gas pip steel tubing.if you could get your hands on an S-Works Moulton MK3 you would be very happy as they were made from Reynolds 531..a considerably lighter prospect..there were rumours of bespoke S-Works Reynolds 531 Safari F-Frames..The S-Works branch used to knock out some decent lightweight Moulton versions..

[Author]

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